Rheem 2 stage fault code

[red]

The second light that is a fault light on my Rheem furnace is blinking 2 times. According to the book, this is a Pressure swith problem, remains open. MOre specifically I believe it has to do with the high pressure fire.

Is this a major problem. Could it be reset to see if it occurs again.

[diceman]

is usually something witrh the venting. chk plastic vent pipe and make sure it is open and no water in it. you can reset by turning power to unit off and on again. sounds like combustion air problem somewhere.

[Breeze]

I don't know where you live but some units can get moisture in the pres. hose assm. You could try switching off t'stat for a min then back to heat. Watch the whole startup seq.
Do you have 2 stg tstat?
What eff. is furnace? (+80% or +90%)

I don't have a book handy right now but maybe one of the other guys will chime in.

[red]

I live in Texas, Houston. Single stage thermostat. Unit will fire to low heat and start to operate, then 2nd light starts to blink.

The 2nd light starts to blink after I believe the inducer kicks into high speed. Does this make sense?

Did not reset after turning off for 15 minutes and back on.

Thanks

[BaldLoonie]

Something must be blocking your flue pipe somewhere. Bird? Critter?

[Collin]

But how about debris in the inducer tapping for the pressure switch or in the tube?

[Breeze]

You can usually see the pressure switch, in front or back, look to see if a wire has come off, then look at the switch near the wires, if its visable then you can see the plunger part of pres. switch moving when unit is on, you may see if its not opening all the way up. We really need a picture to explain this better.

[red]

Tell me how to post a picture and I will take one of the unit and you can point me in the right direction.

[JAMES 3528-old]

It is easy.
Put the dig. pic on your computer.

Go down on this page and hit Browse. Find it and double click. Like this.

[JAMES 3528-old]

Or this

[Breeze]

James with a few more HOT pics like that he won't care or need his furnace working.

Red, do you have a way to snap some pics? They may need to be resized to use the feature JAmes mentioned.
We also have an upload area you can use, its a little harder to do so maybe first try the thing James said.

[red]

Try this one

[JAMES 3528-old]

Check those small hoses in the lower left of pic and see if they have crap in them. Pull them off and see if their is anything where they hook up.

[Collin]

I would find an owner operator to fix the furnace at the end of the day, then go to Hooters.:D

[red]

Nothing but air! Are those the High and Low pressure switches?

Thanks

[Pegleg Smith]

Those are diapharm switches. Hi and low usually refer to the refrigeration components. OK they are clear of debris but are they cracked? Are both switches making? You can jumper through them and find that out. From all pipe dope dripping down the pipes are you sure none of that got into the valve and clogged it up?
I don't want to sound snobbnish but you really ought to find someone qualified to work on that for you.

[red]

Thanks for your response. I don't like the builders company that did the work. I'm not going to get into a battle over "pipe dope" because I agree with you!

They are a Nationwide AC contractor installing for a large nationwide homebuilder. Notice I did not say a good one, but at least you know that it's not my attempt or some so called hack.

With regard to the high low issue the manual refers to the blinking light in the following manner:

2 blinks pressure switch failure (remains open)

In the manual under a section called Pressure switches it states:

The "status" light will blink twice, indicating a pressure switch problem. The high fire pressure switch is located in the upper position of the furnace.

All I know is that it will not ramp up to high speed and heat, and the light blinks. My other unit, which is identical, does not do this.

Thanks

[BaldLoonie]

Remove the flue pipe from the outlet of the inducer. Turn on the furnace, if it fires, the flue pipe is blocked. If it doesn't, the problem is a bad switch, something in the switch or one of the hoses.

Only failure on my smash & dent Trane installed 8 years ago is a fat bird parked in the outlet of the inducer. Pressure switch wouldn't close. Heard it first, since the inducer wheel was grinding down the bird!

[Breeze]

Since I don't have manual and havn't got fault codes in my head is it possible the 2nd stg isn't wired the same as other unit?

If vacuum switch is bad could you just switch wires around between low and high to see if it runs then? I don't think you can jumper a vac switch because board checks for that at start up, right?

[red]

Both units installed 45 days ago, wired identical.

[Pegleg Smith]

Red,
protect your warranty and get a company out there to check it out. It is still under the one year parts and labor warranty period and you shouldn't be charged anything for the service call. If you do any work on it you could void the warranty.

[Breeze]

they should hop right on over and get it fixed for you. I didn't know it was so new.

[red]

This has been a nightmare. There's much more to this story than meets the eye.

I fully intend NOT to do any work, I was just trying to get an idea of what was wrong. Fortunately the weather is warm here for the next few days. I just don't want to blow myself up!!! by using it.